Smart suits, feminine glamour: how Mad Men changed fashion

Smart suits, feminine glamour: how Mad Men changed fashion

 Men were inspired by the style of Don Draper (John Hamm, seated, centre), who typically wears a slim grey Brooks Brothers suit, crisp white shirt, and neatly folded pocket square.  

As the first of several final episodes signalled, Mad Men, the TV show that’s influenced fashion more than any other since Sex and the City, is coming to an end.

The 1960s period drama about slick ad men and curvy women has been an aesthetic gold mine, influencing the slim silhouette of men’s suits, the beauty ideal for women’s bodies and more, particularly during the first five years of the show’s 2007 to 2015 run. It brought the worlds of fashion and costume design ever closer in the process.

From the very first season, I – like most viewers – was seduced by the show’s post-1950s innocence. I dreamed about living in an era before surgeon general warnings, when cigarettes and booze were a given at lunchtime, and the polished glamour and propriety of opera gloves and pillbox hats were the norm.

“I don’t think you would have liked it,” said my baby boomer mother, shattering the spell. “It wasn’t much of a place for women.”

Of course she was right, as we’ve seen in episodes since, but they did dress fine.

The look of the show was envisioned by costume designer Janie Bryant, who was inspired by old catalogues, her Southern grandparents and the wares at Los Angeles area vintage stores – which she helped to make fashion destinations – including Playclothes in Burbank, the Way We Wore on La Brea Avenue and Shareen downtown.

A womanising, hard-drinking man’s man who could almost be forgiven his sins because he looked so darn dashing in a suit, Don Draper (Jon Hamm) became an instant style icon. His character resonated because it was the antithesis of the business casual, cargo-wearing, metrosexual ideal that existed in the late 1990s and early 2000s.

Christina Hendricks plays Joan Harris in the series.

The strength of Don’s uniform for success – the slim grey Brooks Brothers suit, crisp white shirt, neatly folded pocket square, occasional tie pin and fedora – inspired men of the 21st century to dress up in a new, trim-tailored silhouette. Surely it’s no coincidence that men’s retail sales in the United States began an upward climb in 2008, shortly after the series started to run. Although the lumbersexual’s beard oil, pocket whittling kit and made-in-the-USA work boots may be the accessories of choice now, the Mad Men martini shaker, cuff links and pocket squares kicked off the men’s shopping boom.

Don’t miss our Mad Men season 7 preview on Sunday

The women of Mad Men were equally influential, with fans of the series dissecting every look online, from pen necklaces down to power girdles.

Together with first lady Michelle Obama’s similarly retro style, the series helped kick off five years of lady-like cardigans standing in for jackets over pencil skirts and bodycon dresses, worn with kitten heels and pearls. It also helped rekindle interest in matte red lipstick, cat eye makeup (thanks to Don’s second wife, Megan Draper) and more stylised hair.

Fans wrote impassioned columns in magazines, newspapers and online about how Joan’s (Christina Hendricks’) figure helped them learn to love their curves.

And fashion took notice. In 2010, several designers showed runway collections inspired by a more retro vision of the female form. They included Miuccia Prada, who used fuller-figured models on her runway, and Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, who staged a Parisian love story around a shooting fountain, with clothes designed with voluptuousness in mind.

AMC, which screens Mad Men in the US, capitalised on the throwback style of the show, too, entering a marketing partnership with Banana Republic in 2009 that put Mad Men posters in the windows of stores and a “Mad About Style” guide in the hands of shoppers.

And Bryant became a household name, creating a new model for the costume-fashion designer with a steady stream of outside design gigs.

Over the years, Bryant collaborated with Brooks Brothers, Maidenform, QVC and Shoes of Prey. She wrote a book, The Fashion File: Advice, Tips, and Inspiration From the Costume Designer of Mad Men. And by 2011, she was designing an entire, 1960s-inspired Mad Men collection for Banana Republic.

Peggy’s check trouser suit served as a symbol of women’s new-found power in the workplace.

On screen, as the ’60s raged on, the show’s costumes reflected cultural shifts and the emergence of personal style – Peggy’s check trouser suit a symbol of women’s newfound power in the workplace, Stan Rizzo’s beard the mark of a generation determined to break with the conservative past, Sally Draper’s white go-go boots a sign of the rise of youth culture and Megan Draper’s tie-dye mini dress a hint at the sexual revolution.

Only Don has stayed the same.

Robert Morse portrays Bertram Cooper in season seven of Mad Men, which moves into the 1970s. Photo: AP

For the final run, Mad Men enters the 1970s, after leaving off in the summer of ’69 with the Apollo moon landing.

Certainly the new season promo, set to Diana Ross’ 1976 tune Love Hangover, features enough sideburns, loud check, belly chains and bell-bottoms to suggest the jump into the 1970s.

Looking at today’s ’70s-influenced fashion, that would be right on trend.

Tribune News Service

PUBLISHED : Saturday, 11 April, 2015, 7:23am
UPDATED : Saturday, 11 April, 2015, 7:23am


Published by

Robert Chaen

Global CEO-Founder of ChangeU and Movsha Movers & Shakers, Hero-CEO Whisperer, Writer, The #1 Alpha Change Expert, Father of Asian FireWalking Robert Chaen is an International Keynote Speaker, writer, researcher, and corp games designer. He is famously known to be the “Hero-CEO Whisperer”, 1-on1 coaching with many CEOs and Celebrities for corporate strategies, staff & office political issues, personal branding, and even public figure OSHA safety drilling called Drager Defense. He has transformed CEOs and managers in Coca-Cola China, TVB Hong Kong, Cathay Pacific, Hong Kong Airport Services, VADS, TM, Public Bank, Auditor General's Office Maldives, etc. He is the prolific creator and online Author of innovative management tools such as DragonCEO, Diamond Leader, Papillon Personal Effectiveness, OSHA Drager Defense, KPI Bank, etc. He is also the Founder of Movsha, an international networking with monthly mingles with MOVers & SHAkers, Angels, Entrepreneurs, CEOs, Celebrities, HR-PR-CSR, HODs, and the Most Influential IDEA people. ​Chaen is widely considered as one of the top International Platform Keynote Speakers for Resorts World Genting Senior Management Conference (Manila), 7-Eleven HK, Samsung, Coca-Cola China Mini-MBA @Tsing Hua University, Cathay Pacific, Hong Kong Jockey Club, The Story Conference where he interviewed Datuk Kamarudin (Chairman of AirAsia) and Siti Nurhaliza. He has been widely featured in TVB, AWSJ, CNBC, SCMP, The Star, and Sin Chew. As “The Father of Asian FireWalking”, he coached TVB celebrities (Ekin Cheng Yee-Kin) to walk on 650°C fire; and raised HK$68M in the world’s 1st and only live TV Charity FireWalk (TVB Tung Wah Charity Show), before Tony Robbins even came to Asia. If Robert can get you to walk on 650⁰C fire, he can inspire you to be THE BEST. He champions CN-HK-EU-US Tycoons to be philanthropic, and to be angel investors to support the next generation of Jack Mas, Steve Jobs, Richard Bransons, Steven Spielbergs, or Barrack Obamas. With some slick motivational speakers with fake doctorates out there, graduates often describe Robert to be "the most credible, empowering, truthful Coach" who believe in his graduates to believe in themselves. ​However, clients have described Robert as "The #1 Cool Badass Alpha Change Expert". He has the coolest first class stature, rapport and trust from clients. He will not hesitate to tell the badass truth ever so gently because clients are paying him big bucks to reveal the truth, find solutions, persuade the hostile HODs, and align cross-teams within the organization. Originally based in Hong Kong for 20+ years, he had worked with top Branding/Ad agencies at J Walter Thompson and Leo Burnett, and was a certified FranklinCovey (7 Habits) in USA, and NLP MasterCoach (USA). His warmth is known to soften the most hardened, resistant sceptics. He will inspire your team to Go for Top 1, or to be a Dragon CEO. With boundless energies, Robert owns 15+ successful business Joint-Ventures, and created unique products under his global VC network called Chaen's Angels VC. He is deeply passionate about ChangeUTH Youth CSR, Science-Based Medicine (vs. quackery), short films and Reality TV. Touched by a personal tragedy through the loss of his HK-born Portuguese wife, co-coach and business partner, Brenda José of 18 years, Robert explores the many ways in which the spirit world is communicating with the living with real scientific studies and evidence. He gives inspiring conferences on The Secret Afterlife.

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