Michelin star gives Yung Kee scion a goose bump

Two years after losing a high-profile court case, one branch of the family behind the famous Yung Kee roast goose restaurant yesterday savoured the success of seeing its new restaurant included in the latest Michelin Guide.

A lengthy legal battle between brothers Kinsen Kam Kwan-sing and Ronald Kam Kwan-lai split the family, with the younger Ronald gaining control of the restaurant in Wellington Street, Central.

Kinsen’s son Hardy Kam Shun-yuen then opened Kam’s Roast Goose in Hennessy Road, Wan Chai, which received one star in the culinary bible, while Yung Kee was overlooked.

“It’s a new beginning here,” said Hardy. “I no longer think about the court case. I focus on continuing dad’s spirit.”

No stars again for the Yung Kee Restaurant. Photo: Sam Tsang

The new restaurant is a modern twist on nostalgia – the sauce and selection of geese are done in the traditional way following Kinsen’s recipe, but roasted on a gas stove instead of charcoal. Hardy Kam said it was important to preserve the techniques.

“The new generation puts too much emphasis on money and forgets about tradition,” he said.

Yung Kee could not be reached for comment.

The Michelin Guide awarded between one and three stars to 64 restaurants in Hong Kong – two more than last year.

Five received the highest three-star recognition, 14 received two stars, and 45 one star. Three restaurants moved up from one star to two stars: Cantonese restaurant Yan Toh Heen, modern European restaurant The Principal, and contemporary Cantonese Duddell’s.

Young foreign chefs seeking to reinvent dining also gained recognition. Olivier Elzer, who has worked with French chefs Joel Robuchon and Pierre Gagnaire, got one star for his Seasons.

Chef Nurdin Topham, whose restaurant NUR opened this year and won a star, puts strong emphasis on nutrition and environment-friendliness, sourcing 60 per cent of his ingredients from local farms during summer.

He said city diners were very open to new ideas. “It’s what’s beautiful about Hong Kong.”



1. Akrame
2. Forum
3. Kam’s Roast Goose
4. NUR
5. Seasons
6. Sushi Ginza Iwa
7. Upper Modern Bistro
8. Beef & Liberty
9. Gainmore Cuisine
10. Kin’s Kitchen
11. Nishiki
12. Yun Yan



Harry’s view